How to Stoke a Wood Stove Fire

 

Knowing how to properly stoke a wood stove fire is an important part of owning a stove. Proper stoking will help to keep the wood burning properly in order to keep your home heated. 

Items you will need:

Firewood (properly dried and split)

Fire Poker

When you are stoking a fire you, it is after the fire you already started is getting low. (To start a wood stove fire read: http://woodstoveoutlet.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-start-fire-in-wood-stove_25.html)

1. Poke your red hot coals with your fire poker and form them into an even bed of coals. Lay two pieces of firewood parallel to one another on top of the bed of coals. Close the vent on the front of the wood stove door to where it is closed halfway. Wait for about one hour then check wood.

2. If the two pieces of wood that you put in before are now coals you will want to add two more pieces. If they are still formed logs, close the woodstove door and wait for about 30 minutes before checking again. Once the wood is coals repeat Step 1 again. 

It is advisable to check your woodstove at least once an hour.

Source:

http://www.ehow.com/how_8098004_stoke-wood-fire.html

How to Check Your Chimney

Checking your chimney is a very critical part in avoiding having a chimney fire. However, the next step of fixing found problems will also help to avoid chimney and flue fires. So what do you need to know to check your chimney?

First you might want to review where each part is located on a typical chimney (this will give you an idea of what to expect when looking at your chimney)

Photo by Home Tips - Chimney

Now before we go any further, if you feel uncomfortable with the thought of checking your chimney on your own, or are timid about getting on the roof, you will want to consider having a professional do this for you.

• In your fireplace (if you have one) check your mortar and bricks. Sometimes the mortar wears out and will need to be replaced with a high heat mortar. If the bricks are looking worse for wear, then you will want them to be replaced by a professional mason.
• Also examine the outer mortar and bricks of your chimney. If these bricks are damaged you will want to consult with a mason. Also check to be sure there are no white stains on the bricks, as this can be an indicator of water damage. While you are outside you will want to take a look at your chimney cap. (Your chimney cap keeps rain, animals, and debris out of your chimney, so you will want to replace or repair if it is damaged). 
• Back inside, you will want to do a check on your damper. Be sure that it opens and closes easily and that when closed there aren't any drafts. 

For more chimney checking tips visit:
http://www.diynetwork.com/home-improvement/maintaining-a-fireplace-and-chimney/index.html
http://homebuying.about.com/cs/fireplacesafety/a/wood_fireplace.htm
http://www.villagesweepnj.com/maintenance.php

Check back for future Woodstove Safety information including:
Woodstove Safety: Choosing and Installing
Checking your Chimney
How to Properly Stoke a Woodstove Fire
How to Start a Wood Stove Fire
How to Dispose of Wood Stove Ashes
How to Prevent a Flue Fire
What to do if You Have a Chimney Fire

Wood Stove Chimney Connection

When you are installing a wood stove in your home you will want to be sure to choose the correct size wood stove and know wood stove safety installation.

When connection your woodstove to your chimney you will need to know that there are four main methods to do this:

• Direct connection to a masonry chimney.
• Passage through a flammable partition into a masonry chimney.
• Entry into a fireplace and chimney.
• Outlet through a wall or ceiling through a factory built metal chimney.

Direction Connection to a Masonry Chimney:
When connection directly into a masonry chimney you will want to be sure that the stovepipe that is inserted penetrates to the inside edge of the masonry liner, however, it should go NO further than that. It will then need to be sealed with masonry cement. If you use a masonry thimble that is set into the chimney to accept a slip in section of pipe then the masonry cement will not be needed. Keep in mind that if you cannot easily gain access to this connector for cleaning, you will need to use a masonry thimble so you will be able to remove the pipe for periodic cleanings.  

Passage Through a Flammable Partition into a Masonry Chimney:

The second connection method, passage through a flammable partition into a masonry chimney, covers any connector which passes within 18 inches of a flammable partition. NFPA regulation #211 specifies that in these cases the wood stove installation should include either a vented metal thimble which has a diameter 12 inches larger than the stovepipe or that a masonry thimble be ringed by at least 8 inches of fireproof brickwork. According to Mother Earth News the only other prudent option would be to leave a minimum of 18 inches of space around the outside of the stovepipe and then close your hole with a flame-resistant barrier.

Entry into a Fireplace and Chimney:

If connecting your woodstove to the flue above the fireplace then you must plug your chimney below the point of connection. If you are exhausting through the fireplace then the entry to the fireplace must be sealed. Doing this helps to prevent burning embers from falling down into your fireplace and possibly onto the floor (which is a big fire hazard) but it also helps to maintain the proper draft for your wood stove. It is best if chimney entrances for wood stoves are above the fireplace, however some considerations will require that the connection be made through the sealing partition and into the actual fireplace. In any chimney, but especially a fireplace with a cooler external chimney you should extend the stovepipe so that it turns up and into the chimney to help prevent heavy creosoting.  (Read more about Creosote and Flue Fires).

Outlet Through a Wall or Chimney with a Factory Built Metal Chimney:


Passage of stovepipe through any floor, ceiling, or fire wall is prohibited by NFPA regulations. However, you may pass the stovepipe through a wall, floor, or ceiling if you use a factory-built insulated chimney. If you do not have a suitable masonry chimney then this type of piping is the only option you have.

If you have any concerns about installing and connecting your wood stove speak with your local building inspector to get advice, knowledge about local building codes and possible a recommendation on someone who can do the job for you safely and effectively.

Insulated Thimble

Check back for future Woodstove Safety information including:
Woodstove Safety: Choosing and Installing
Checking your Chimney
How to Properly Stoke a Woodstove Fire
How to Start a Wood Stove Fire
How to Dispose of Wood Stove Ashes
How to Prevent a Flue Fire
What to do if You Have a Chimney Fire

Sources:
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1980-01-01/Wood-Stove-Safety.aspx?page=3

Woodstove Safety Choosing & Installing

Wood heat is an inexpensive alternative to many other heating methods. It can also compliment electrical heat and save on your powerbill. However, when using wood heat from a wood stove it is best to take some precautionary measures.

Wood stove safety really begins with the installation and selection of your woodstove.The first step is being sure that you have the correct size wood stove for your home. To find out more on how to select the right size woodstove read: How do you know what size wood stove you need? The reason you need to have the correct size stove is that a stove that is too large can cause creosote build up resulting in a chimney fire. A stove that is too small can overfire, which can result in walls and other flammable materials that are a "safe" distance from the stove to ignite.
Once you have chosen the woodstove that is appropriate for your home, you will want to be sure that it is correctly installed. Some installation instructions from http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1980-01-01/Wood-Stove-Safety.aspx?page=2 follow:

Your first concern when installing a wood stove is to maintain safe clearances. Follow the specifications in the accompanying tables, and—if you have a limited space for your stove—use suitable thermal barriers to safely reduce the clearance distances. Note that the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) specifies asbestos millboard—not cement board—and/or steel plate. But, MOTHER hopes that—because of the harmful effects of asbestos—conscientious readers will opt for steel and an adequate air space.

Moreover, when your wood stove's body is set at least 18 inches above a flammable floor (or even if the framework supporting this surface can burn), line the floor—both under and near the heater—with 24-gauge sheet metal. If the clearance is less, however, use four inches of hollow masonry underneath the metal.
Of course, the positioning of your stove will determine the amount of stovepipe necessary to connect it to your chimney. The NFPA specifies that as little stovepipe as possible should be used. However, it's generally accepted that every four feet of pipe (up to about 12 feet) that's exposed to inside air space will yield about 10% "bonus" heat from a stove. Uninsulated stovepipe does an excellent job of radiating the heat from flue gases.

However, beyond the obvious danger of someone's being burned by the hot metal surface, there are two other basic hazards connected with using an extended stovepipe. First, as the pipe's length increases, so does the possibility that its joints will break during a chimney fire.
And then there's the question of whether the heater's draft is adversely affected by a long stovepipe. You see, the heat of the flue gases is dissipated through the metal, and this does reduce the thermal draft effect . . . but longer sections also tend to improve draft by increasing the chimney's volume. The trade-off (as well as the point where one effect overwhelms the other) is an uncertain one.

The uninsulated stovepipe should clear all flammable objects by the same distances suggested for stoves in the tables of clearances. Again, you can reduce the necessary space by using a thermal barrier. It's also possible to use insulated factory-built chimney (with clearances as specified by the manufacturer), but—if you do so—you'll lose much of the heat you would have gained from the stovepipe. (Plus, the factory-built product can cost around $1.50 per linear inch, while regular stovepipe currently sells for about $1.50 per linear foot!)

Most wood-heating veterans now recommend that the female ends of the pipe sections be mounted upward ... to prevent creosote from leaking out around the seams. However, there is still a small counter-current philosophy which believes in setting the female junctions downward ... to keep smoke from escaping. A safe compromise is to mount the female ends up ... and then seal each junction (except those joints which facilitate removal of the pipe for cleaning) with furnace cement and three sheet metal screws spaced around the circumference of the joint.

The NFPA also specifies that all horizontally run stovepipe should rise (away from the stove) at least 1/4 inch per linear foot. Again, not all stove experts agree on this point. The basic idea behind the steady-rise stipulation is that the flue's draft will be aided by the slight upward flow. Whether or not this actually is the case, it's an easy enough requirement to follow . . . and a little extra safety never hurt anyone.

Should you decide to use an extensive run of stovepipe, support the tubing (usually by suspending it with wires) at least once every six feet. In addition, always try to employ a minimum number of bends—using the most gradual curves possible—to reduce turbulence in the exhaust gases.

Remember, too, that even the most skillfully fitted and maintained stovepipe has a maximum lifespan of three years. After the first season you should check your pipe for soundness regularly. You can make a fairly accurate test by squeezing the pipe in your hands. If you are able to crush the walls in your grip, the corrosive creosote has eaten away too much metal for the installation to be safe.

(One useful capability—that you can build in when you install your heater—is a crud trap. Where the pipe leaves the stove—in most cases, horizontally—simply add a tee fitting instead of an elbow. Then plug the lower end of the tee with a removable cap that's fastened with sheet metal screws. When the time comes for cleaning or inspection, this opening will give you easy access to a section that is usually the longest straight run of stovepipe.)

Read more from Mother Earth News at: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1980-01-01/Wood-Stove-Safety.aspx

Check back for future Woodstove Safety information including:
Chimney Connection for a Wood Stove
Checking your Chimney
How to Properly Stoke a Woodstove Fire
How to Start a Wood Stove Fire
How to Dispose of Wood Stove Ashes
How to Prevent a Flue Fire
What to do if You Have a Chimney Fire

How to store kerosene and how long it can be stored

If you have a kerosene heater for use when the electricity goes out, you may want to have kerosene on hand for that time. In order to do so you must be able to safely store kerosene for later use.
So how can kerosene be stored?
Kerosene should be stored in new, clean, sealed containers that are clearly marked for kerosene. If you store your kerosene in used drums, milk containers & other used plastic jugs, and/or gasoline cans then your kerosene can become contaminated, which will result in harm to the kerosene wick or even a fire.

How long can kerosene be stored?
Three months is the longest that we've seen kerosene being recommended for being stored. When kerosene is allowed to stand for longer amounts of time the kerosene will break down and absorb water. Sludge will also develop in the fuel due to bacteria and molds that live in kerosene that feed off of fossil fuels. When fuel with sludge build up in it is used, it will clog the heater and harden the wick.

Why your Fireplace Needs a Fireback

Not only do fireplace firebacks add a touch of history, romance, and practicality to your fireplace, they are also both functional and decorative.

What can a fireback do for your fireplace?

• They retain and radiate heat from your fireplace back into your room. Which will keep your home warmer and help save more on your heating bill.
• The prevent and conceal damage to the firebrick in the rear of your fireplace. Fireplaces, despite how far materials in home building have come since the earlier years of fireplaces, are still vulnerable to damage from the intense heat that a fire gives off, the fireback will help to prevent expensive damage to your fireplace's masonry.
• Firebacks can be used with both wood fires or gas logs.

Interested in owning a fireback for your fireplace? How do you know what size you need?

In choosing a size for your fireback you will need to be sure that it is large enough to protect the area directly behind the fire. But it does not need to be so large that it extends into the flue. A fireback that extends into the flue can cause problems with the draft and also interfere with the damper in your fireplace.

At woodstove-outlet.com we have a beautiful selection of firebacks for fireplaces.

How to Prevent a Flue Fire

Tis the season to snuggle up next to a warm fire. But that romantic notion can easily be shattered and lost if a flue fire starts. How can you prevent a flue fire from happening? Well the first step is to know what causes a flue fire.

Flue fires are typically created by creosote build-up. Creosote is a very thick, sticky liquid that will stick to nearly anything. The burning of wood causes the creation of creosote naturally. Creosote is naturally very flammable and its appearance can vary from being be sooty or ash like, sticky, tacky, and runny tar glaze, dry honeycombs or curly flakes. It can also be a dense, hard, and shiny black tar glaze.You should be sure to clean your chimney and flue every year to remove creosote build up from the previous winter's fires, you will need a chimney brush to help in cleaning. If you do not feel comfortable cleaning it yourself, you can hire a local chimney sweep.

There are also things that you can do when it is the season to be using your wood stove or fireplace that can also help in preventing a flue fire.

When first building a fire, make a small, very hot fire, this will create a good updraft so that there is less buildup on the flue. (For more info read: How to Start a Fire in a Woodstove)

Always, burn wood that is well seasoned and/or dry. (For more info read: How to Season Firewood)

Avoid burning large amounts of paper and cardboard, using them to start a fire is fine, but do not burn more than you need. Wood stoves and fireplaces are not meant to be trash burners. Certain types of material will cause a much larger amount of build up in your flue than others.

Another little tip is to toss a handful of salt thrown on the flames occasionally, it will help loosen the soot. You should do this once or twice a month.

Try not to use extremely pitchy wood for anything other than starting the fire, as this wood will create more build up. Sometimes it cannot be helped, but be aware that by using this type of wood that you will have more creosote build up.

If you do have a flue fire, do not panic, call the fire department, and do not pour water into the firebox (this can have explosive results). You can pour salt or use a foam style fire extinguisher. But first and foremost get yourself and your family to safety. Things can eventually be replaced. Lives cannot.